The Ocean Highway

1938:  The Ocean Highway.  Compiled by the Federal Writers’ Project of the Works Progress Administration and published by Modern Age Books, Inc. at the Rumford Press, Corcord, New Hampshire, page 65.

This travel guide traces the “Ocean Highway” (also known as U.S. Route 13) from its northern terminus in New Brunswick, New Jersey along the Atlantic Ocean, to its southern terminus in Jacksonville, Florida.  Besides the obvious benefit to unemployed Depression Era writers, the stated intent of the book was to provide a “living course in American history” by following this well-traveled route which “connects some of the oldest settlements in North America”.

Wharton Place is described in the section of the book featuring the Eastern Shore of Virginia where “[l]anguage and customs…are still in many ways what they were in 1700”.  Given the project scope and perhaps budget and time constraints, it is understandable that much of what is stated has since been refuted.  Similarly, it would appear that the author did not go inside the house as in fact none of the mantles are marble, and none are carved with the “Biblical or patriotic subjects” described.  Nonetheless, it is still of interest to observe what is described and how it is presented.  On page 65 of this text is the following entry (bold print is as presented in the book):

At 11.1 m. on US 13 is MAPPSVILLE (105 pop.).

Left from Mappsville on Co. 689 to a three-way fork, 1.3 m.; extreme L. here on Co. 679 to a junction with Co. 689 at 1.6 m.; R. on Co. 689 to the entrance (L) of WHARTON PLACE 2.7 m., which has a square brick house with a hip roof surmounted by a widow’s walk without a railing.

One of the Colonial owners of the estate was John Wharton, who acquired it from Daniel Wharton in exchange for 150 acres of land and 4,000 pounds of tobacco.  John Wharton, according to tradition, was one of those who evaded the payment of high import taxes on goods from Holland and other foreign countries by smuggling.  It is believed that he had tunnels connecting the house with the river and stable, and depressions in the lawn, such as might have been created by the collapse of tunnels, seem to give backing to the story.  The house walls, at the points where the depressions near them, have also sunk slightly, creating fissures.  The downstairs rooms of the house are all wooden paneled except the drawing-room, which was possibly silk-hung in the past.  The marble mantels are carved with Biblical and patriotic subjects, including the Landing of the Pilgrims and the Sacrifice of Isaac.

Smuggling was common throughout the Colonies, and the man who was able to do it successfully did not suffer in his neighbors’ esteem.  On the whole the Eastern Shore temper was much more conservative than that of the mainland, and the stories of piracy and smuggling provide the few lawless notes in its history.